Bedford Boys - D-Day Heroes (and my family)

My ears perked right up when the guide on the D-Day Beaches tour said that the access road is named for the town of Bedford, Virginia. My mother spent every summer of her childhood in Bedford, staying with her three male first cousins. All three landed on Omaha Beach on D-Day.

EARL L. PARKER, the oldest of the three brothers, died on June 6, 1944, on D-Day on Omaha Beach in the first wave of more than 160,000 Allied troops that landed along the 50-mile stretch of heavily fortified coastline. His body was never found. His name is engraved on the Wall of the Missing at the Normandy American Cemetery. He was married and the father of one daughter. He was the only Bedford Boy that had a child. 

Wall of the Missing, Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial, Colleville-sur-Mer, France

Detail of the Inscription of Earl L. Parker's name on the Wall of the Missing 

Sgt. Earl L. Parker, Bedford Company A, 116th Infantry, 29th Division,
part of the first wave of D-Day Allied Troops. 

JOSEPH E. PARKER, JR. died on August 27, 1944, almost three months after D-Day, near St. Lo, France, having moved inland after the troops broke the German line on D-Day. His grave is at the Brittany American Cemetery and Memorial in Saint-James, France. I described my visit in a worldgrazer post dated 11/30/14.

Grave of Joseph E. Parker, Jr. at the Brittany American Cemetery, St. James, France

WILLIAM PARKER was imprisoned and released at the end of the war.

Bedford, Virginia suffered the country's most severe per capita losses on D-Day as well as in all of World War II. (I'm quoting from FindAGrave.com, which popped up when I searched the names of the soldiers whose graves I hoped to see when visiting the D-Day memorials in Normandy).

The significance of how Bedford figured into D-Day was reported by author Alex Kershaw in his best seller, The Bedford Boys: One American Town's Ultimate D-day Sacrifice. The book's summary description follows.

"June 6, 1944: Nineteen boys from Bedford, Virginia--population just 3,000 in 1944--died in the first bloody minutes of D-Day. They were part of Company A of the 116th Regiment of the 29th Division, and the first wave of American soldiers to hit the beaches in Normandy. Later in the campaign, three more boys from this small Virginia town died of gunshot wounds. Twenty-two sons of Bedford lost--it is a story one cannot easily forget and one that the families of Bedford will never forget. The Bedford Boys is the true and intimate story of these men and the friends and families they left behind.Based on extensive interviews with survivors and relatives, as well as diaries and letters, Kershaw's book focuses on several remarkable individuals and families to tell one of the most poignant stories of World War II--the story of one small American town that went to war and died on Omaha Beach".

Now that I have seen the harsh cliffs of Normandy and appreciate the extraordinary bravery of the American soldiers who faced German firepower, I have added Bedford, Virginia to my must-see list. The National D-Day Memorial in the United States is located in Bedford. Its website says: "Proportionally this community suffered the nation's severest D-Day losses. Recognizing Bedford as emblematic of all communities, large and small, whose citizen-soldiers served on D-Day, Congress warranted the establishment of the National D-Day Memorial here.

After rechecking the proper labels, I can say that as a first cousin once removed, of three of those incredibly brave young men, I am humbled by the fierce bravery of thousands of soldiers who took on the Nazi forces and turned the course of history.

Locations of the Normandy American Cemetery in Colleville and Brittany American Cemetery in Saint James

Saint-James Cemetery -A Well Cared-For Resting Place for American D-Day Heros

D-Day history hangs heavy over any visit to France's Normandy coast. Of course, impressionist painting, calvados (a delicious apple brandy) and cheese figure largely in a tour of Normandy. But, D-Day dominates.

I had a special experience visiting Saint-James Cemetery. Also known as "Brittany American Cemetery and Memorial", it is one of the two American cemeteries in the region where the allied troops landed on French beaches to begin battling the Nazis.  The Saint-James Cemetery is just 15 miles east of Mont Saint Michel, the medieval abbey built on an island a half-mile off the French coastline.  So, a detour to the American military cemetery was easy to combine with a visit to Mont Saint Michel.  

The cemetery is free and open to the public. It is very well maintained and has a visitors' center staffed by very knowledgeable and helpful personnel. It is one of fourteen cemeteries outside of the United States where there are permanent burial grounds for US armed forces.  It is operated by the American Battle Monuments Commission, which was created by Congress in 1923.  The use of the cemeteries on foreign soil have been granted in perpetuity to the United States by the host governments free of cost, rent and taxation.  

On the day of our visit, the sole staffer in the visitors center at Saint-James was a retired US military man. He was thrilled to help. I gave him the name of my mother's first cousin, Joseph E. Parker, Jr., who was buried there. In moments, he produced the plot location information (Section H, Row 13, Grave 6), grabbed a duffel bag and escorted us out the door. He walked us to the location of the grave, passing through rows of identical white marble crosses. When he found the spot, he pulled an American flag from his duffel, unfurled it and placed it in the ground in front of the cross.  Then, he removed a thermos from his bag. In it was sand from Omaha beach. He rubbed a handful into the indentations from the marker carvings. The dark sand contrasted against the white cross making it easier to read the carved letters.  Using a soft cloth, he gently wiped away the excess sand. Finally, he stood at attention in a salute with his right hand.  With his left hand, he aimed and clicked a small remote control device in the direction of the visitors' center and chapel. Taps began to play mournfully.  He remained at attention, inspiring me to do the same - and to shed a few tears as well. After visiting the D-Day landing spots and battlefields, and seeing the incredible challenges that the young soldiers faced, it's so hard to believe that they broke through the Nazis' line.

Rubbing Sand from Omaha Beach into the Indentations in the Headstone

After that moving moment, the caretaker returned with us to the visitors' center. He opened a file drawer and, to my amazement, produced an original document from 1944. It was a piece of pink tissue paper that was a carbon copy of the Headstone Inscription and Interment Record.  Apparently, the families of fallen soldiers were offered the opportunity to repatriate the remains to the US at the families' expense, or else our government would provide the gravesite and headstone in France.  He photocopied the document and gave it to me, along with the flag that he had planted at the gravesite. 

Before Sand was Rubbed into Headstone Inscription

After Sand Rubbings

At Attention While Taps Plays

After that moving moment, the caretaker returned with us to the visitors' center. He opened a file drawer and, to my amazement, produced an original document from 1944. It was a piece of pink tissue paper that was a carbon copy of the Headstone Inscription and Interment Record.  Apparently, the families of fallen soldiers were offered the opportunity to repatriate the remains to the US at the families' expense, or else our government would provide the gravesite and headstone in France.  He photocopied the document and gave it to me, along with the flag that he had planted at the gravesite.  

 The Brittany American Cemetery and Memorial, Saint James, France

Cliff Notes - How the Irish and the Newportish Differ in Warning Cliff Walkers

Walks along the edge of seaside cliffs can be treacherous -- even deadly. Although it should be obvious to tourists that if they get too close to the edge, they risk a calamitous fall. The signs posted show the danger to anyone who reads any language.

This sign is posted in numerous spots along the Newport, Rhode Island Cliff Walk.

The warning signs at the Cliffs of Kilkee in County Clare, Ireland, take two signs to get the same point across.

Cliff Walk Competition

I walked four different cliff walks over four months: one in Rhode Island, two in Ireland and one in Canada.  As the self-appointed judge, I declare Newport's Cliff Walk the winner as the most beautiful, interesting and varied terrain.

1. CLIFF WALK - NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

I live near this 3.5 mile gorgeous stretch.  The Atlantic Ocean is on one side and the back yards of Newport's mansions are on the other. Along the way, the path varies from paved sidewalk to jumbled boulders and from sandy beaches to treacherous precipices. Depending on the weather, it can be a balmy stroll or a battle against the whipping wind.


2. CLIFFS OF MOHER - COUNTY CLARE, IRELAND

This famous walking trail in County Clare traces the boundary of one of Ireland's most outstanding landscapes (according to the Cliffs of Moher visitors' center). The trail continues past the visitors center along a 20 km coastal path with views across to the Aran Islands and Galway Bay. Even before getting too far from the visitors' center, you can feel how exposed the trail is. There are no handrails except on the stiles that go over the fences and walls. Some of the path passes by private farms with cows and sheep dotting the fields.


3. CLIFFS OF KILKEE - IRELAND

Kilkee is a holiday beach resort in County Clare, Ireland. The Cliff Walk in Kilkee winds around the perimeter of a rocky point that destroyed many ships over many years. Not surprisingly, the wind whips up over the cliff's edge, making it a challenge to trudge forward up the hills and around the bends.

4. CLIFF WALK - CAPILANO SUSPENSION BRIDGE PARK
IN VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA

The main attraction in Capilano Suspension Bridge Park is, of course, the suspension bridge. It is 460 feet long and a 230 foot drop to the floor of the chasm it crosses. In addition to the suspension bridge, the park includes a Cliff Walk, an elevated footbridge through the forest, wrapping around the wall of one of the cliffs.  (In my opinion, the Capilano Cliff Walk is not in the same league as the first three above, but since it calls itself "Cliff Walk", I let it slide in).

My fave? The home court advantage. Newport's Cliff Walk.
Why? It is a winning combination of beautiful sea views and variation in walking terrain, punctuated by majestic architecture.

Begging the Question at Doonbeg

Trump Doonbeg Resort Hotel - view from the beach

Doonbeg Golf Course (You can't see the wind or the rain, but believe me, it's rugged)

Doonbeg is a destination golf resort on the west coast of Ireland, about one hour from the Shannon airport. It is a beautiful, rugged, isolated spot that looks like an old castle standing for eons. Not so. The resort was built to look like it was there forever, converted into an upscale luxury hotel with stone outbuildings and gorgeous gardens. Apparently, the rural area around Doonbeg suffered from little industry and high unemployment. When developers promoted Doonbeg as a destination, it provided meaningful work for many locals.  Unfortunately, the business struggled and failed.
But within the last year, Donald Trump's organization bought the Doonbeg property and tucked it under the Trump organization flag. The locals are thrilled to have the backing of Trump and his resources to provide more job security, steering business to the resort and the region.
While visiting Doonbeg last month, I heard a conversation at the hotel bar that went something like this:
Bartender to Guest: "Did you play golf today?"
Guest: "Yes, and it was great"
Bartender: "Was it the best course you ever played on?"
Guest: "Well, it was great, but I'm not sure I would say it was the best. Is Doonbeg really the best in Ireland?"
Bartender: "That's what we told Donald Trump when he asked for the best course in all of Ireland".

Eye Candy on Doonbeg"s Beach

Definitely Worth Bundling Up For a Walk on Doonbeg's Beach to See What's Going on Down There

Newport Rhode Island 375th Parade

A wholesome, sweet, all-American parade wound its way down Broadway in Newport, Rhode Island on June 21, 2014.  Musicians dressed in colonial soldiers' uniforms played brass horns and banged on drums as they arrived at Washington Square and stopped to perform in front of the judges' reviewing stand.  Clubs and groups marched proudly behind their banners. It was great fun to watch (and to jump into the street and snap photos).

Colonial Spirit in Newport

Preservation Society of Newport County's Float looked like a house rolling down the street

A little sneeze 

A little head scratch

Shrunken Head in a Gold Jewel Display Case: Drogheda

Saint Oliver Plunkett's dark little burned-up head is lovingly displayed in a glass case in a church in Ireland. St. Peter's Church and Shrine is prominent in the center of Drogheda, about 45 minutes north of Dublin. (Say "drow GEH deh"). Thanks to the concierge at the Westin in Dublin who offered suggestions on interesting sights north of Dublin, we took a slight detour to visit this curious shrine. The unfortunate Mr. Plunkett was hanged and burned, but some friends rescued his head and preserved it as a relic. 

Mr. Plunkett had been appointed an Archbishop in 1669 and was forced into hiding when "the political situation changed" (according to the brochure distributed at St. Peter's Church).  The story, according to the brochure: "In 1679 Archbishop Plunkett was arrested on a trumped up charge of treason. False witnesses testified against him but even a Protestant jury in Ireland would not convict him. He was transferred to London and tried there for treason. In a scandalous travesty of justice, he was convicted and sentenced to death. On 1st July 1681 Archbishop Plunkett was hanged, drawn and quartered at Tyburn. His head was rescued from the fire by some friends of his and is today venerated here in St. Peter's, Drogheda".   Oliver Plunkett was canonized in 1975.

Shrine of Saint Oliver Plunkett's Head in St. Peter's Church, Drogheda, Ireland

Saint Oliver Plunkett's Head (in an unfortunately glary glass case)

Pink in Green: Hot Italian Bikers Raced Through Ireland

Ireland hosted the start of the world's second largest bike race, the Giro d'Italia.  The race commenced from May 9-11, 2014, with a course tracing from Belfast through the Causeway Coastal Route and the Glens of Antrim. Little communities across Northern Ireland were particularly enthusiastic about welcoming the race's hot pink branding along the route. Much Pepto Bismol-colored paint was sprayed across the countryside.  Hot pink bicycles leaned against stone walls and were lashed to poles as decorations along the route. Benches in towns were painted pink, as were mailboxes and metal farm enclosures. I even saw a flock of sheep whose coats were shocking pink.  

Linen Hall Library: Trendspotter of "The Troubles"

Belfast's Linen Hall Library holds over 350,000 leaflets, posters and artifacts from the strife between Protestants and Catholics. A most informative and enthusiastic librarian is eager to show the collection and describe its history.  In the 1960s as protests and organizing began to heat up, the forward thinking librarian of this essential storehouse of Irish history told the staff to bring in every scrap of political material they encounter that relates to "The Troubles". The collection chronicles the civil rights movement from its very beginning. It is the only collection of its type in the world, because most archives gathered their material retrospectively whereas this storehouse amassed items as the movement and its arguments formed at the onset.  The library's collection is nonpartisan and willingly welcomes donations from both sides.  This was not without risks, as the librarian told us that Irish law prohibits paramilitary collections in a public library. However, the neutrality of the collection and its importance is honored by both sides. In fact, both Sinn Fein President Gerry Adams and the Northern Ireland Secretary of State both send annual Christmas cards to Linen Hall Library. On New Years 1994, the library was firebombed, although the collection was not harmed. The following week, Sinn Fein published a half page ad in the Irish Times saying that the "young volunteers" responsible did not realize the importance of the political collection. Contributions are still made regularly, including a police station unloading its entire archive of videotape footage, Sinn Fein city council member periodically delivering files, and from multiple donors who ask not to be identified. One collection of unknown contents is embargoed. 

2 (and a fraction) of the 350,000 items in the Troubles collection

Extremely Informative, Helpful and Enthusiastic Librarian Gerry Devaney, Linen Hall Library, Belfast

Linen Hall Library: Belfast Scooped the US Declaration of Independence

After the last name was penned onto the Declaration of Independence, the document was packed up and sent by ship to deliver the message to the King of England. But, the ship carrying the declaration ran into very rough seas in early August 1776 and had to stop in Derry, Ireland.  A sneaky person broke into the cargo package containing the document, copied down every word, and transmitted the information to the Belfast Newsletter, whose readership hungered for news from abroad.  The Belfast Newsletter published the full text of the Declaration of Independence in early August, 1776, meaning that the Irish people read the first printed version of the Declaration of Independence outside of the United States. Belfast's Linen Hall Library has the original printed version of the newspaper and it can be viewed upon request with advance notice. 

In checking out the story, here is what I found in Wikipedia on the subject of the publication of the Declaration of Independence:

"British officials in North America sent copies of the Declaration to Great Britain.^[109] It was published in British newspapers beginning in mid-August, it had reached Florence and Warsaw by mid-September, and a German translation appeared in Switzerland by October. The first copy of the Declaration sent to France got lost, and the second copy arrived only in November 1776.^[110]"

The Linen Hall Library is Belfast's oldest library. Located across the street from City Hall, its  curved wooden staircase, wooden stacks and brown leather-covered books evoke a feeling of being cozily wrapped in history. The collection includes every single day's issue of the Belfast Newsletter since 1737, the second year of its existence. Remarkably, the original issues are still intact, collected in bound volumes. The librarians don't believe in wearing white gloves for handling, saying that body oils on the hands are less damaging than the fabric-treating chemicals. 

An issue of The Belfast Newsletter

The Governors' Room in Belfast's Linen Hall Library

Newgrange- The World's Oldest Solar Observatory (that I never heard of)

Newgrange is an ancient gravesite one hour north of Dublin.  The complex of Newgrange was originally built about 3200BC, making it over 5,000 years old. According to the information at the visitor center, carbon-14 dates it at about five hundred years older than Stonehenge and the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt. It is a large flat mound covered with grass and surrounded by multiple-ton flat boulders shaped like almonds.

The huge stones are decorated with carved swirling patterns, some clockwise, some counterclockwise.

One theory of the significance is that the solstice divides the rising and lowering of the sun as the length of daytime changes direction.  Prehistoric people constructed this tomb so that an opening on the side is precisely positioned to allow light to enter during the winter solstice. The tomb is open to visitors only via guided tour.  Newgrange is in an area along the Bóinne River called Brú na Bóinne. Upon arriving at the Brú na Bóinne  Visitor Center, you can buy a ticket for a tour at an assigned time. The tour starts with a bus ride along the river bank and up to the tomb area.  While waiting your turn to enter the tomb, the guide points out that the multiton rocks are made of stone far from the region, probably having been floated on wooden barges down the river and moved up the hill by log rollers to the tomb site. 

Bru na Boinne River

Guides lead you through the narrow dark passageway into the center of the tomb, where the ceiling opens up to a height of 36 feet or so. The guide uses flashlights to simulate the sun's rays so that tourists can experience the crescendo of golden light as it goes from total darkness to a wash of warm yellow glow. About 25 people at a time can fit in the tomb enclosure, spending about 10 minutes inside, hearing an explanation of sophisticated engineering of the waterproof stone mound and the ancient peoples' advanced understanding of the sun. The National Trust that manages Newgrange sponsors a lottery for 50 people to win the right to be in the tomb at sunrise on the solstice. 30,000 people tried for a spot in 2012. Entry blanks are provided at the end of the tour.   

Entrance to the tomb; Guide holding umbrella, reminding a visitor to mind his head