Cliff Notes - How the Irish and the Newportish Differ in Warning Cliff Walkers

Walks along the edge of seaside cliffs can be treacherous -- even deadly. Although it should be obvious to tourists that if they get too close to the edge, they risk a calamitous fall. The signs posted show the danger to anyone who reads any language.

This sign is posted in numerous spots along the Newport, Rhode Island Cliff Walk.

The warning signs at the Cliffs of Kilkee in County Clare, Ireland, take two signs to get the same point across.

Cliff Walk Competition

I walked four different cliff walks over four months: one in Rhode Island, two in Ireland and one in Canada.  As the self-appointed judge, I declare Newport's Cliff Walk the winner as the most beautiful, interesting and varied terrain.

1. CLIFF WALK - NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND

I live near this 3.5 mile gorgeous stretch.  The Atlantic Ocean is on one side and the back yards of Newport's mansions are on the other. Along the way, the path varies from paved sidewalk to jumbled boulders and from sandy beaches to treacherous precipices. Depending on the weather, it can be a balmy stroll or a battle against the whipping wind.


2. CLIFFS OF MOHER - COUNTY CLARE, IRELAND

This famous walking trail in County Clare traces the boundary of one of Ireland's most outstanding landscapes (according to the Cliffs of Moher visitors' center). The trail continues past the visitors center along a 20 km coastal path with views across to the Aran Islands and Galway Bay. Even before getting too far from the visitors' center, you can feel how exposed the trail is. There are no handrails except on the stiles that go over the fences and walls. Some of the path passes by private farms with cows and sheep dotting the fields.


3. CLIFFS OF KILKEE - IRELAND

Kilkee is a holiday beach resort in County Clare, Ireland. The Cliff Walk in Kilkee winds around the perimeter of a rocky point that destroyed many ships over many years. Not surprisingly, the wind whips up over the cliff's edge, making it a challenge to trudge forward up the hills and around the bends.

4. CLIFF WALK - CAPILANO SUSPENSION BRIDGE PARK
IN VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA

The main attraction in Capilano Suspension Bridge Park is, of course, the suspension bridge. It is 460 feet long and a 230 foot drop to the floor of the chasm it crosses. In addition to the suspension bridge, the park includes a Cliff Walk, an elevated footbridge through the forest, wrapping around the wall of one of the cliffs.  (In my opinion, the Capilano Cliff Walk is not in the same league as the first three above, but since it calls itself "Cliff Walk", I let it slide in).

My fave? The home court advantage. Newport's Cliff Walk.
Why? It is a winning combination of beautiful sea views and variation in walking terrain, punctuated by majestic architecture.

Begging the Question at Doonbeg

Trump Doonbeg Resort Hotel - view from the beach

Doonbeg Golf Course (You can't see the wind or the rain, but believe me, it's rugged)

Doonbeg is a destination golf resort on the west coast of Ireland, about one hour from the Shannon airport. It is a beautiful, rugged, isolated spot that looks like an old castle standing for eons. Not so. The resort was built to look like it was there forever, converted into an upscale luxury hotel with stone outbuildings and gorgeous gardens. Apparently, the rural area around Doonbeg suffered from little industry and high unemployment. When developers promoted Doonbeg as a destination, it provided meaningful work for many locals.  Unfortunately, the business struggled and failed.
But within the last year, Donald Trump's organization bought the Doonbeg property and tucked it under the Trump organization flag. The locals are thrilled to have the backing of Trump and his resources to provide more job security, steering business to the resort and the region.
While visiting Doonbeg last month, I heard a conversation at the hotel bar that went something like this:
Bartender to Guest: "Did you play golf today?"
Guest: "Yes, and it was great"
Bartender: "Was it the best course you ever played on?"
Guest: "Well, it was great, but I'm not sure I would say it was the best. Is Doonbeg really the best in Ireland?"
Bartender: "That's what we told Donald Trump when he asked for the best course in all of Ireland".

Eye Candy on Doonbeg"s Beach

Definitely Worth Bundling Up For a Walk on Doonbeg's Beach to See What's Going on Down There

Newport Rhode Island 375th Parade

A wholesome, sweet, all-American parade wound its way down Broadway in Newport, Rhode Island on June 21, 2014.  Musicians dressed in colonial soldiers' uniforms played brass horns and banged on drums as they arrived at Washington Square and stopped to perform in front of the judges' reviewing stand.  Clubs and groups marched proudly behind their banners. It was great fun to watch (and to jump into the street and snap photos).

Colonial Spirit in Newport

Preservation Society of Newport County's Float looked like a house rolling down the street

A little sneeze 

A little head scratch

Shrunken Head in a Gold Jewel Display Case: Drogheda

Saint Oliver Plunkett's dark little burned-up head is lovingly displayed in a glass case in a church in Ireland. St. Peter's Church and Shrine is prominent in the center of Drogheda, about 45 minutes north of Dublin. (Say "drow GEH deh"). Thanks to the concierge at the Westin in Dublin who offered suggestions on interesting sights north of Dublin, we took a slight detour to visit this curious shrine. The unfortunate Mr. Plunkett was hanged and burned, but some friends rescued his head and preserved it as a relic. 

Mr. Plunkett had been appointed an Archbishop in 1669 and was forced into hiding when "the political situation changed" (according to the brochure distributed at St. Peter's Church).  The story, according to the brochure: "In 1679 Archbishop Plunkett was arrested on a trumped up charge of treason. False witnesses testified against him but even a Protestant jury in Ireland would not convict him. He was transferred to London and tried there for treason. In a scandalous travesty of justice, he was convicted and sentenced to death. On 1st July 1681 Archbishop Plunkett was hanged, drawn and quartered at Tyburn. His head was rescued from the fire by some friends of his and is today venerated here in St. Peter's, Drogheda".   Oliver Plunkett was canonized in 1975.

Shrine of Saint Oliver Plunkett's Head in St. Peter's Church, Drogheda, Ireland

Saint Oliver Plunkett's Head (in an unfortunately glary glass case)

Pink in Green: Hot Italian Bikers Raced Through Ireland

Ireland hosted the start of the world's second largest bike race, the Giro d'Italia.  The race commenced from May 9-11, 2014, with a course tracing from Belfast through the Causeway Coastal Route and the Glens of Antrim. Little communities across Northern Ireland were particularly enthusiastic about welcoming the race's hot pink branding along the route. Much Pepto Bismol-colored paint was sprayed across the countryside.  Hot pink bicycles leaned against stone walls and were lashed to poles as decorations along the route. Benches in towns were painted pink, as were mailboxes and metal farm enclosures. I even saw a flock of sheep whose coats were shocking pink.  

Linen Hall Library: Trendspotter of "The Troubles"

Belfast's Linen Hall Library holds over 350,000 leaflets, posters and artifacts from the strife between Protestants and Catholics. A most informative and enthusiastic librarian is eager to show the collection and describe its history.  In the 1960s as protests and organizing began to heat up, the forward thinking librarian of this essential storehouse of Irish history told the staff to bring in every scrap of political material they encounter that relates to "The Troubles". The collection chronicles the civil rights movement from its very beginning. It is the only collection of its type in the world, because most archives gathered their material retrospectively whereas this storehouse amassed items as the movement and its arguments formed at the onset.  The library's collection is nonpartisan and willingly welcomes donations from both sides.  This was not without risks, as the librarian told us that Irish law prohibits paramilitary collections in a public library. However, the neutrality of the collection and its importance is honored by both sides. In fact, both Sinn Fein President Gerry Adams and the Northern Ireland Secretary of State both send annual Christmas cards to Linen Hall Library. On New Years 1994, the library was firebombed, although the collection was not harmed. The following week, Sinn Fein published a half page ad in the Irish Times saying that the "young volunteers" responsible did not realize the importance of the political collection. Contributions are still made regularly, including a police station unloading its entire archive of videotape footage, Sinn Fein city council member periodically delivering files, and from multiple donors who ask not to be identified. One collection of unknown contents is embargoed. 

2 (and a fraction) of the 350,000 items in the Troubles collection

Extremely Informative, Helpful and Enthusiastic Librarian Gerry Devaney, Linen Hall Library, Belfast