Victoria Falls: The Zen of Zim

Double Rainbow (Typical)

Victoria Falls perpetually appears on all those short lists of the world's natural wonders. The water from the Zambezi River tumbles down a stunningly steep cliff that forms the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. After making the decision to visit the falls, one must decide whether to stay on the Zimbabwe side or the Zambia side. Fodor's guidebook refers to this decision as "To Zim or to Zam?" We chose To Zim because the ferocious curtain of water faces the Zimbabwe shore, treating those on Zimbabwe's side to the dramatic display of mist and double rainbows on Devil's Cataract, the most spectacular section. It seems like you are walking through the rainbows as you stroll the paths of the national park lining the falls' edge.
The other option of staying in Zambia was very tempting, as most of the adventure outfitters operate on the Zambia side at the top of the falls, like swimming in Devil's Pool - a natural pond perched at the edge of the killer steep drop, or bungee jumping off the Victoria Falls Bridge. Also, Zambia offers several lovely chic lodges along the river, as well as a much more stable political climate than Zimbabwe. In fact, the country of Zimbabwe is somewhat dangerous to visit, unless you confine your visit to the tourist Town of Victoria Falls - which we did. Upon arriving at immigration, we were warned that it is illegal to photograph military people or government buildings - or, it gets worse- to wear; or even to possess camouflage clothing - punishable by imprisonment. We intended to spend less than 24 hours on our little jaunt to see this natural wonder of the world. And so, we opted to visit Zimbabwe. We stayed in the Victoria Falls Hotel, a grand old colonial dame built by the British The hotel, its expansive lawns and terraced patio are squarely situated facing the falls and majestic bridge. The entrance to the national park is less than ten minutes' walk from the hotel. When taking tea on the terrace in the afternoon, the view is surreal. The mist rising from the falls is known as "the smoke that thunders" and can be seen from 40 miles away. For a quick hop to view the majesty of Victoria Falls, our choice to visit via Zimbabwe was fantaztic. The Zen of Zim.