Friday, April 24, 2009

Eight Temples in Five Hours

The 4:45 wake up call was a little bad. Out the door around 5 with our partners for the day, Bart and Steve, the "Beach Boys" team from Southern California. Great guys! We shared a car to take us to Angkor, which is the park where over 100 ancient temples are located. It's about a 20 minute drive from Siem Reap. The rush is to be there before sunrise so you can see the sun come up over Angkor Wat. ("Wat" means "Temple"). At the entrance gate, we had to get passes which included a digital photo which the ticket office made.
The sun came up and reflected on the lake, where a donkey stood, along with at least a few hundred tourists, cameras poised, like we all waited for a show to begin. The temple is massive and takes your breath away when it first comes into view. There is an intensely detailed bas relief (mural carved into the stone) which is called the story wall. We learned that Angkor Wat was built to honor the Hindu God Vishnu and that the other major temple, Angkor Thom was also Hindu but has been converted to a Buddhist temple now that Cambodia is a Buddhist country. Next we visited Phnom Bakheng, the oldest temple and it is at the top of a hill that is quite a hike. It was just after dawn but already getting steamy for a hike. Did it and got back in the car to head for Angkor Thom.
A word about cars: there are no metered taxis. Either you get a car and driver or you ride in a tuk-tuk. What a fun thing! It's an open air surrey pulled by a moped. The breeze feels so good as you drive along - and you are right there on the street. Did I mention it is really hot?
Another word - about money. In addition to accepting payment in local currency, everyone accepts dollars and gives change in dollars. AND, when we went to the Cambodian Royal Bank ATM and chose English language, the screen offered withdrawal amounts in multilples of $20 - how nice to calculate currency conversion for us. More surprisingly, the withdrawal was actually delivered in US dollars!
Angkor Thom's entrance is a tree-lined shady approach which you can travel to by elephant - so we did. A bit rolly like a rough day on the ocean. At the temple we achieved the scavenge of taking a photo with 2 willing monks because there was a monastery there. Surprise for me. It looked like summer camp bunks scattered under the trees, with (not a surprise) saffron cloths hung from trees and railings. The shelters had few walls, you could see right in, and they live on the ground in filth and piles of trash and plastic waste strewn about. Young boys are abundant. We paid for the privilege to take a picture with them and then chatted a bit. There are many parents who cannot work, they give their kids up and the monks teach them. So sad.
Ta Prohm is such a cool temple. It was in Tomb Raider and has trees growing on top and through it. The birds eat the fruits of the (kapok) tree and fertilize the tree to grow even more. Nature wins over man on this one! Outside the temple under the trees were vendors. I ticked off the challenge to buy something made in Cambodia and bought a $5 sundress which I am wearing now.. Alex's Vietnamese bag didn't count.
Next was a group of 3 temples called the Rolous Group. Roulos was the original capital of Khmer (which is the English name for Cambodia). We visited the 3 major temples.
Then we went to the Angkor Hospital for Children to donate some things.
A note on begging - well... aggressive salesmanship. Beautiful young teenage girls approach you and offer something for sale. They speak nasal English, smile teasingly, and many have the same patter: "You been here before? I remember you. You from states? Washington DC capital. What state you from?". Then, we went back to the hotel to take a quick swim before our 2 PM deadline.
The group met and Bill told us we have to get ourselves to the airport for an 8 PM flight to Bangkok. Following a quick discussion about why it's ok to go to Bangkok and disregard the state of emergency, we dispersed to swim (to TRY to cool off) and pack. As I write this a day later, the state of emergency has been lifted.
The 45 minute flight on Bangkok Air was the same length as the bus transfer from the Bangkok airport to the hotel. Three nights at the Mandarin Oriental. So so so so nice! Room overlooking the river. Quick shower and to bed for our 9 AM meeting to receive the Thailand scavenges.