The Hutongs in Beijing are the crowded streets of old buildings, where several families cram into small spaces lacking indoor plumbing; many without electricity. Mrs. Wong is an elderly woman who makes arrangements with the government to invite tourists into her home. She resides in one of the nicer Hutong homes. She lives alone in a parlor that can accommodate 14 or so guests crowded around, plus a sleeping alcove cordoned off by a curtain, and a kitchen. She has running water, electricity and heat. She lacks a toilet or bathing facility. Mrs. Wong counts herself lucky because the neighborhood's public toilet and shower facility serving her sector is steps away from her front door.
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| Mrs. Wong's Hutong, Beijing |
She and her 30-something niece invite visitors into Mrs. Wong's home to see what life is like in the Hutongs, and to see her niece's demonstration of the intricate process of bottle-painting. The art flourished during the emperors' reigns, when royalty carried their snuff in beautifully decorated glass bottles. The bottles are painted from the inside, requiring wisps of fine bristles, a steady hand and eagle-sharp eyesight. Mrs.Wong taught the skills to her niece, having painted for many years until her eyes failed, and having learned the art from her grandfather who painted for the royal family in his prime. As a talented servant to the royals, Mrs. Wong's grandfather enjoyed the perqs of aristocracy. He owned a grand home in the typical rectangular design, with many rooms facing into an inner courtyard. The People's Revolution seized his grand residence, leaving him with a sliver of one corner. He passed his home down to his granddaughter, Mrs. Wong; and he taught her the art of snuff bottle painting. She feels lucky to have the home she has - and to have it to herself. During the course of the visit, Mrs. Wong spoke through an interpreter, explaining how highly regarded her grandfather's work was. She showed one snuff bottle he had painted; and then photos of acclaim for her niece's bottles which are for sale at the end of the visit.
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| Sample of Snuff Bottle Painted by Mrs. Wong's Grandfather for the Last Emperor |
Mrs. Wong derives just about the same amount of joy from her white poodle pet. The dog's ears were dyed bright orange. She explained that the festive color was in honor of its birthday. But, apparently, Mrs. Wong did not need a birthday excuse to decorate the dog. A photo of the dog sporting ears of lemon yellow blinked as the screensaver on a personal computer in the sleeping alcove. The distraction of dog dying might help keep Mrs. Wong from mourning that life is but a sliver of what her grandfather had before the Cultural Revolution.
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| Mrs Wong's niece, showing photo of herself being honored for her skills in the ancient art of painting snuff bottles from the inside; and Mrs. Wong's poodle pic on the screensaver, sporting yellow ears |